Tag: Miniature Wargaming

Can I Kit-bash some centaurs for Warriors of Athena?

A cutting mat, sprue of miniatures and cutting tools.

In this post I look at how I kitbashed some centaurs for Warriors of Athena using some Wargames Atlantic horses.Victrix Greek Peltasts.Warlord Games ancient greek hoplites, Victrix Armoured Spartan Hoplites and some Victrix Dark Age archers.

It has been a while since I last posted but I have been managing to do the odd bit of hobbying here and there. Much of my focus has been getting stuff ready to play Warriors of Athena.

I’m not sure where I first saw someone online kit-bashing centaurs but it struck me as a great idea and I thought I’d give it a try. It felt a little ambitious with my limited kit-bash skills but I thought I’d have a go and see how it went, after all my Skeletal Hoplites weren’t a total disasster!

What I used

  • Milliput – two part epoxy putty. Sets reasonably hard and can be thinned with water while you work it.
  • Green Stuff – two part epoxy putty that sets with a little bit of plasticity (I think that is the right word – it is a bit bendy).
  • Bluestuff – a moldable thermoplastic.
  • Polystyrene cement – I’m currenly using humbrol, very old humbrol. I miscalculated on how much I actually use a few years ago and bought a bunch of it. It unfortunately doesn’t last for ever!
  • Sharp things – hobby knives and clippers.

For most of the above a quick search in the browser of your choice will give you loads of options of where to buy.

The Kitbash

Two parts of a horse body miniature and a greek peltast without head and right arm.
Two parts of the horse body and a greek javelin man

First step was to build the horse body and chop the bottom part of a greek javelin man and add the top to the horse body.

Top half of a greek javeling man glued to a horse body.

This left a sizeable gap underneath the waist of the javelin man so I filled this with trusty milliput.

The gap between the horse body and javelin man body is filled with milliput two part epoxy putty.

An earlier step I forgot about was cutting away the saddles and straps from the horse bodies and filling them smooth.

Three horse bodies one with the javelin man torso and the other two showing where the saddle and tack are being removed.

With the gap between filled, I used more milliput to sculpt the lower part of the javelin man’s tunic. I used a head from the ancient Greek hoplites and added a hand with a javelin. For on the table the Javelins can double as spears depending on the needs of the scenario.

Javelin man 'centaur' with head and hand weilding a javelin added.
This cutting mat isn’t much better. My excuse is that both of them are very old.
A different view of the finished centaur  miniature.
A different view of the finished ‘centaur’.

I wasn’t happy with the finished miniature (well two of them at that point actually). The body was too long and looked out of proportion so it was time to snap off the torso and start again. There was a part of the horse miniature that was added to the horse body between the head and neck, which wasn’t helping so I removed that as well.

The centaur miniature with the human torso broken off.

With those changes that was about it, apart from the paint. 

The re=built centaur miniature with lower tunic sculpted with a mix of greenstuff and milliput epoxy putties.
Another centaur but with greenstuff/milliput mix for the lower tunic.

I went with mainly speed paints over a white drybrush, there are hundreds of youtube videos of Slap Chop method (I really wish someone would come up with a better name but I suppose ‘white drybrushy over darker painty sort of thing’ isn’t as catchy), so I didn’t do a step by step of the painting.

I’m always in two minds about the finish I get with speed paints. I’m not sure where I go wrong but it often looks a bit bland compared to how I see the results of Youtubers paint jobs. There are extra steps you can do of course, double slap chop, selective highlighting and probably more, but this seems like defeating the object a bit for me. I just need to find my own work-flow I suppose. I do like the results Peachy gets so I might have to re-watch his videos closer to get some tips, peachy tips! Do you see what I did there?

Anyway, after the three spearmen I built some archers. I went with giving them all similar colour schemes to unify them. Here is a group shot of the first six kit-bashed centaurs.

Six kitbashed centaur miniatures.

The Leaders

The Warriors of Athena Quest book also lists three leaders for the centaurs so I wanted these to look distinct from the three spearmen so used the armoured Spartan hoplites (not sure how this is pronounced. I always thought it was ’hop-lights’ but I noticed that Total War Rome goes with what sounds like ’hop-lee-tez’ – if you know, let me know in the comments).

These would require sculpting some extra layers for their armour to tie in with what they are wearing. I went with green stuff.

Kit-bashed centaur with armoured sparten hoplite for the human torso part and a row of green stuff  expoxy putty sculpted armour.

One of the Spartans had a cloak which presented a problem. The cloak was obvioulsy made for a standing human, not a half human, half horse. So I tried bending the cloak to lie correctly on the horse back.

First attempt was using boiling water. This was a total fail. The plastic didn’t bend at all. So, next, with fingers and toes crossed I put the cloak in a hot oven. This worked making the plastic pliable but it re-set hard more or less as soon as I got it out of the oven.

On to plan B!

I made an impression of the cloak in warmed blue stuff then, rolling out a thin sheet of green stuff and pressed this in the mould rubbed with a tiny bit of veseline. This worked perfectly it was then just a matter of carefully removing the green stuff from the mould and carefully addding it to the spartan torso and adding the front piece of the cloak from the sprue. I lost the plastic part that was to go at the back of the helmet for the models hair so I added some more greenstuff to the back of the head and sculpted some.

Kit-bashed centaur miniature with a greenstuff cloak added.
Another view of the kit-bashed centaur miniature with a greenstuff cloak added.
Front view of kit-bashed centaur miniature with a greenstuff cloak added.

And here are the finished leaders. I used more regular paint on these but stuck with speed paints for the tunics and helmet crests. I am fairly happy with them. They are good as table-ready, which is, at the end of the day, what I need them for. I try and keep reminding myself that I don’t have to spend ages on paint jobs just for table use. O.k, maybe the odd character model can be a little more fancy but its not necessary to have competition quality miniatures for gaming (not that I think I can paint competition quality!). Still need to work on the freehand stuff for shields and the like,

Kit-bashed leader cantaurs painted and based.

Let me know in the comments if you have kitbashed anything for Warriors of Athena or maybe you have some tips on free hand painting?

Making a table top terrain Cottage from corrugated Cardboard

Recently while hunting for hobby related videos on YouTube I found
Selrahc Games
and some great videos about making terrain with corrugated cardboard.

I have a terrible habit of holding onto cardboard packaging, after all, its bound to be useful for something someday, right? I’m still fairly new at terrain building so I’m still learning and trying out new techniques is very useful.

Making terrain from something that was likely going to end up in the recycling bin is a very appealing. I’ve mostly been using XPS foam which I really like, but, while you can get good deals on it, is not cheap. You also end up with a lot of off cuts, which I tend to hang on to rather put in the bin. I have some plans to make some terrain pieces from off cuts at some point so will write about that when I do.

I wanted to try out the method seen on Selrahc Games and decided to make a small cottage which would be useful for Silver Bayonet, D&D or a other games.

To start off I made a rough template for the ends of the cottage. This will be a guide for getting the height of the walls and the pitch angle and rise of the roof.

corrugated cardboard template for cottage end
cardboard end and side wall for model cottage

Next, using the template I drew out then cut out two pieces of card, one for each side and end of the cottage.

The cottage will of course need a doorway and windows so these were added to one of the pieces.

cardboard model cottage end and side with doorway and window cut out
cardboard cottage with bricks added

After cutting cardboard strips and cutting these again to the size I wanted for the bricks, the individual bricks can be added to the wall of the cottage. I use a quick setting wood glue, in preference to standard ‘school glue’ PVA, but either will work. PVA has one of those smells that always takes me back to primary school and making stuff with ‘sugar paper’. Actually why is it called that, I’ll look it up, the hive brain is sure to know.

This next step is the bit that I think really makes this method work. Over the bricks covered with glue, you add a layer of tissue paper, bog roll works really well. As the tissue develops small wrinkles as you add it it will give the bricks texture.

cardboard cottage brick wall covered with a layer of tissue paper
cardboard model cottage roof

For the roof I added pieces to get the shape and help keep the roof in place. My plan is to have the roof be removeable so that miniatures can be easily placed inside.

With both the pieces added and the glue dry the roof is ready for the next stage.

cardboard model roof

I then painted the walls dark grey, the dry brushed a lighter grey and then added some bits of wooden coffee stirrer for the window frames.

For the roof I was planning to add roof tiles made from thinner card but I had a change of mind.

unravelled twine used to make model cottage thatch

What I wanted was to model thatch. I considered making it from cardboard but found a couple of great videos on YouTube one from The Crafting Muse and one from Miniature Wizardry about using jute twine or as I’ve always called it hairy string, to make the thatch.

The twine is unravelled and then glued to strips of cardboard with more wood glue. You want the cardboard strips to be about half the length of thatch.

Starting with the bottom most part of the roof the thatch strips are added. You want the thatch to extend below the roof a little.

This part of the build is messy and time consuming, but sort of satisfying.

Strip of twine 'thatch' added to model roof
two layers of thatch added to model roof

More strips are added until the roof is covered. The last strip is twice the width of the others so that it can be folded to fit on the roofs peak.

For the ends of the roof I just dabbed on some glue and added small bunches of twine to cover the corrugations.

It was also about this point that I found out about plumbers hemp from another video about making model thatch roofs from LNR Models

model roof end
miniature model cottage

And that was more or less it. I gave the thatch a brush over with some black acrylic ink to age it and added some of my basing mix, a melange of Games workshop static grass, Geek Gaming Scenics Foam scatter – Mid green I think, Some old GW gravel, ‘play pit’ sand and some tarragon.

Overall I am quite pleased with the result. The thing I would change for the next time I use this method, is the size of the bricks and to use cardboard with smaller corrugations as the cardboard I used had quiet large ones and this made some of the bricks a little weak.

What do you think? Is this something you would try for your own gaming table? Do you prefer xps foam for terrain building? Let me know in the comments.

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