Tag: miniature painting

All Alone in Felstad Pt4 – Frostgrave Battle Report – 2nd solo scenario

Isher’s weapon shop

Durnimlath watched as the unconscious bodies of  Seregthaur and Mothorm became surrounded by a hazy light, flickering from blue to purple and back again. The air was filled with a subtle tang of hot metal which she associated with magic being used. Both the elves became indistinct as the light grew stronger. And then, as the light winked out the two forms were replaced by two different elves, Breged and Calaraglar. Both sat up looking confused.

Two Miniatures for the skirmish wargame - Frostgrave
The new Thugs – Breged On the left & Carlaraglar On the right

“Welcome to Felstad” Durnimlath said with an ironic smile. “Tell me. What were you doing before you arrived here?”

“We were patrolling near the Sentry Oak” Breged replied, standing up and brushing dust from the floor from her leather clothing.

“Yes, and then I heard a sound like screaming in the distance that got closer and became louder until I felt like I could not bear it…” Calaraglar said, her voice trailing off into silence.

“I heard it also, yet I thought it more like the cry of marsh geese, and then we were…here.” Breged continued looking at the nodding Calaraglar.

“I am sorry my friends but it seems that someone or something is using strong magic to play games with us. We were likewise patrolling the boundaries of the forest and then we found ourselves on the edge of this ruined city. It is Felstad and we are at the doorway to an abandoned weapon shop. We here have already fought with strange smoke like serpents to get this far. It is my hope that inside we will find items to aid us in returning to Farran. Until then I fear we may have many adversaries to overcome.”

The Setup

This, the second solo scenario from the Frostgrave “Perilous Dark” supplement, takes the war band to the weapon workshop of Isher, in search of magical items. It begins with the war band having come through the doorway of the ruined weapon shop.

I made a change to my war band after the previous scenario and made Brikolad a captain using the rules from “The Frostgrave Folio“. This lets you have a war band member who can gain experience, in return for a small fee. The initial cost is 100GC and as I’d already spent 75 on Brikolad I just paid an additional 25.

I used some home made, slightly wonky, slightly scruffy, dungeon tiles and various piles of rubble and walls also made from XPS foam plus weapon racks and shelves made from coffee stirrers.

Wargames table covered with xps foam dungeon tiles xps rubble, walls and weapon racks made from coffee stirers.

The object is to get from the door to the opposite side of the board where there is a magical cabinet with a switch on either side. When both switches are pulled the cabinet will open, depositing two loot tokens. Then the war must get back to the door and exit the workshop, ending the scenario. At each corner of the board is a numbered spawn point. At the beginning of the game there are two gnoll thugs at each of the spawn points and two gnoll knights standing in front of the magical cabinet.

Diagram of the board set up
Diagram of the board layout
Scenery pieces for skirmish wargame Frostgrave
Switches on walls made with XPS foam and bamboo sticks with green stuff.
Model cabinet for skirmish wargame Frostgrave
The magic cabinet made with thick card and XPS foam

Out of game spells

Durnimlath and Mirhen both cast Out of game spells Familiar, Brew Potion and Animal Companion (more on that at the end). Only the Animal Companions were successful so they each start the game with a Snow Leopard companion.

28mm Snow leopard miniatures

The following are the highlights (and low lights) of the skirmish.

Turn 1

My plan was to move the thieves and snow leopards up the board as fast as possible to throw the switches and open the cabinet, while the Wizard, Apprentice, Captain and knight move up the board ready to grab the loot. The rest of the war band was to stay fairly close to the door to keep it clear for when the others come back with the loot.

Miniatures on a wargames board for the Frostgrave skirmish game

Durnimlath successfully casts enchant weapon on Daetir‘s dagger – this is useful as it negates the -1 damage penalty that daggers have.

In the creature phase II the gnolls begin moving towards the centre of the board. I decided that the two gnoll knights would however, stay guarding the cabinet.

Turn 2

Brikolad gets first blood taking a gnoll down with his bow and Durnimlath casts another Enchant Weapon, this time on Kirgwaith’s dagger.

Miniatures on a wargames board for the Frostgrave skirmish wargame


Mirhen does a great job casting an Elemental Bolt successfully despite an effective -4 penalty and does enough damage to also kill a gnoll. That laser burned up my whole special effects budget!

Miniatures on a wargames board for the Frostgrave skirmish wargame and a laser line marker

Back near the entrance Calaraglar and Galenglim are attacked by gnolls. Calaraglar takes damage but Galenglim wins the combat and damages the gnoll.

In the soldier phase Calaraglar attacks the gnoll and removes it from the game.

Miniatures on a a wargames board for the Frostgrave skirmish wargame

At the end of the turn a gnoll knight spawns at 2.

Turn 3

Apart from maneuvering and some failed casting rolls nothing much happens until the soldier phase when Gurthbor, Galenglim and a snow leopard all attack and kill gnolls.

Miniatures in a game of Frostgrave
Miniatures in a game of Frostgrave
Snowleopard and gnoll miniatures in a game of Frostgrave

At the end of the turn two gnoll thugs spawn.

Turn 4

Durnimlath begins the turn by casting elemental bolt at a gnoll. She needs to empower it (taking damage) but it hits and kills a gnoll.

In the soldier phase the first war band casualty occurs when a snow leopard attacks a gnoll, loses the combat and is killed.

At the end of the turn two more gnoll thugs spawn.

Turn 5

At the beginning of the turn Durnimlath casts another empowered elemental bolt and kills a gnoll.

Later in the turn Mirhen successfully casts bone dart killing a gnoll.

Miniatures on a a wargames board for the Frostgrave skirmish wargame

In the creature phase 2 a gnoll attacks Calaraglar and removes her from the board.

Miniatures on a a wargames board for the Frostgrave skirmish wargame

The Coming of Borock

Borock is a huge gnoll mutated by magic to be a Minotaur/gnoll hybrid. Big bad and able to send other gnolls into a killing frenzy, he will be a big problem for the war band. There is a chance that he might spawn earlier but if he hasn’t, he spawns at the end of turn 5.

Miniature of Borock a Gnoll/minotaur hybrid

I digitally kit-bashed Borock using Microsoft 3D Builder using a gnoll miniature by Evgenii Tkachenko at Maypole Minis and Minotaur horns from Murray – GameScape3D

Turn 6

Breged rolls lucky attacking and killing a gnoll..

Miniatures on a a wargames board for the Frostgrave skirmish wargame

A Gnoll attacks the remaining Snow Leopard killing it while another gnoll loses its combat with Naru Magol and is killed.

Miniatures and scenery being used for the skirmish wargame, Frostgrave

At the end of the turn a gnoll archer spawns.

Turn 7

The thieves continue moving towards the switches while Naru Magol attacks and kills a Gnoll. Gurthbor and Galenglim both attack gnolls and kill them.

Two elven infantry men miniatures used in the Frostgrave skirmish wargame

At the end of the turn both a gnoll thug and a gnoll archer spawn at spawn point 2.

Turn 8

Daetir reaches the left-hand switch and Kirgwaith is nearly at the right-hand switch but, has a gnoll thug and a gnoll archer (who has already done 8 damage) very near-by.

Galenglim and Gurthbor attack Borock, hopefully keeping tied up and not able to inspire other gnolls to frenzy.

At the end of the turn a gnoll knight spawns, at 3 right near the left-hand switch!

Turn 9 – Turn 12

This where it all started to unravel. Galenglim and Gurthbor kept Borock busy but Galenglim was brought down before Gurthbor finished him off. The rest of the the war band were slowly whittled away including Mirhen the apprentice. Durnimlath was left all alone and made a break, heading back to the door to leave but was brought down by gnoll archer, inches away from reaching it.

Post Game

Luckily both Durnimlath. Mirhen and Brikolad had good rolls on the Death and Injury table, making full recoveries.

The soldiers rolls were as follows:

Naru Magol – Full Recovery

Gurthbor – Dead

Galen Glim – Full Recovery

Daetir – Badly wounded

Kirgwaith – Badly wounded

Calaraglar – Badly wounded

Breged – Dead

Badly Wounded means the soldier will not be available for the next scenario. I’m going to replace the two thugs with animal companions and the two thieves with new ones as they are free to recruit. They will look somewhat identical to the ones that the replace. Odd that! Gurthbor is replaced by a new soldier a Man At Arms.

I also realised I had miss-read the rules regarding the Animal Companion spell and that they should have taken up a soldier slot. I also forgot that both the magic users had heal spells – doh!

There was some XP and Durnimlath goes up a level and raises her shoot stat, which will help with Bone Dart and Elemental Bolt. This also means that Mirhen’s shoot stat also raises.

The war band have moved into the Treasury to use as their base and found some Gold Crowns so that was some good news.

I’m undecided whether to run through the scenario again or just go on to the next. I think I will run it again but with a changed gnoll spawning table.

I was surprised at how tough the scenario felt. There is a lot talk on the internet about the previous scenario being overpowered, and Joseph has said as much himself, but I thought this one was as tough, if not more so. What, I think makes it difficult is the spawning of extra gnolls at the end of every turn.

As I think it is said in Perilous Dark, balancing solo scenarios is not easy. Of course, if I had had a lot of better dice rolls, my perception might have been different, and you do have a reasonable chance of any downed soldiers surviving which is a plus. I also possibly didn’t have enough scenery as it is suggested that you have a bit more than for competitive games.

I think I will re jig the gnoll spawns to have less knights and only spawns on every other turn. After all Borock is out of the picture so maybe the gnolls are leaving that area now their leader is gone.

Overall i really enjoyed the game and am looking forwards to playing again.

Gnoll mniatures

Northstar Military Figures – Frostgrave Gnolls

Free STL files used,by:

Jaime Blanco at Warpainted Minis

Nicolas Hughes The Jester Mask

Yasashii Kyojin Studio

And a group of “Heroscape: Gnoll Fighters” which I can’t find any details on plus some basic gnolls from an old D&D game.

Let me know in the comments if you have played this scenario and how you found it? Also how do you find campaign play in skirmish wargames? Are there any that get it spot on?

Zombie Kit Bash For Silver Bayonet

This post is a bit out of sequence as I haven’t finished writing my review of Silver Bayonet. This was a fairly quick and basic kit bash but I am very pleased with the result.

The Zombie Head

First I took a head from the Victrix French Napoleonic Infantry 1807 – 1812 box and cut away the majority of the face. Then I took a skull from the Citadel Skulls box, a worthwhile purchase that is incredibly useful.

miniature french infantry head and citadel skull cut to fit together

It took a couple of tries to get them to fit together well and it pays to be cautious with the removal of plastic, a little at a time.

French infantry shako with skull face miniature

Next I added the head to a body and gouged some rips in the trousers, first making a shallow cut and then using the tip of the scalpel blade to lever the plastic out a little, then cutting some nicks into the edge of the ‘rip’. I also added some more ‘rips’ to the waistcoat. I added a right arm that had an open hand and for the left arm cut away a rifle that was held in the hand. The bayonet from the rifle I cut off and stuck in the neck under the skull. The left arm was crooked so I cut in at the elbow joint and opened it up, using the rifle to partly fill in and support the gap.

I then trimmed off the excess bits of rifle and used some sprue goo to smooth out the join in the arm. I also used some Green Stuff World Green Putty – Acrylic Modelling Filler to tidy up the join between the skull and infantry head. I prefer this putty for gap filling and small jobs. I’ve not had much luck with liquid green stuff from GW as the pots dry out really quickly and I end up throwing away about 90% of the pot.

When the sprue goo had set I attached the arm and when the glue had set primed the mini and added a thinned down black wash. I then added a base and my go to basing mix of sand, all purpose filler (known as spackle in the US) and basing gravel. I also cut the right foot from the base and give it a twist to look like the classic zombie foot drag inspired by Peachy’s The Silver Bayonet review which has an excellent kitbash idea for making some zombies similar to this (round about the 23:49 mark).

Finished miniature of a zombie Napoleonic french infantryman

With all that dried I gave the mini a final drybrush of grey all over then a zenithal white dry brush before painting with Army Painter Speed Paint 2.0. Then an all over wash with a mixture of Two Thin Coats Necrosis Green and black Vallejo Game Wash Dipping formula, which I think has been discontinued but you may be able to find it. I bought it as it was a big 200ml pot for a reasonable price. I go through so much black wash that buying in the small bottles is expensive. Then added my basing mix; Games workshop static grass, Geek Gaming Scenics Foam scatter – Mid green I think, Some old GW gravel, sand (I bought a bag of ‘play pit’ sand years ago for topping off cactus pots – more sand than I will ever possible use) and some tarragon, it was Greig Johnson in one of his marvellous make videos who mentioned using dried herbs and I have had a jar of tarragon for possibly over 25 years and I don’t like tarragon for some reason. It won’t win a Golden Demon but I hope that if there was a ‘Manky Demon Award’ that I’d at least get into the second round. Looking at it now I might add a bit of gloss varnish in places on the muddy bits of the base to make it look sticky.

Napoleonic French zombie miniature

Miniature Painting: Glazing – driving me crazy!

(or Miniature painting: the awful truth of glazing)

One of my weak areas with miniature painting is getting the smooth transitions between shade, mid-tone and highlight.

I started painting miniatures back in the 80’s. My first attempts were awful. I had a set of AD&D Grenadier miniatures Halflings and left over enamel paints from painting model aeroplanes. So the results of some very garishly painted halflings with just basic flat colour. It wasn’t until a few years later when I started buying Citadel Miniatures and reading White Dwarf that I developed a better style of painting which essentially was prime, base coat and dry brushed highlights. This changed little apart from the addition of adding washes when Citadel/Games Workshop released their first line of acrylic inks.

Over the years I’ve tried to blend paint on the miniature with a small amount of success but it was only a couple of years ago when I picked up the miniature painting hobby again after a long break that I started looking online for painting guides.

The beginner painter of today has such a huge resource of tutorials out there on the internet which is incredible.

One technique that people use to smooth the transition between shade, mid tone and highlight is glazing.

With glazing the basic idea is to paint the mini with shade, mid tone and highlight and then thin the mid tone so that it has less opacity and paint layers of this over the top. This has the effect of evening out transition.

A practical demonstration

I haven’t had a lot of luck getting it to work so I thought of a little experiment that might give me a clue of where I was going wrong.

I painted a block of primer onto a spare miniature base divided up the base and painted layers progressively over the primer.

The first section I went with a 50/50 mix of paint and Vallejo glaze medium as advised by the bottle. Some people are champions of dilution with water but I wanted to use the glaze medium.

Then I repeated the process with a 2:1 glaze medium to paint mix on the other side of the miniature base to see how a greater dilution would look.

The results

a  miniature base with successive layers of thinned paint

This rather inelegantly does shows how the process works, and unsurprisingly that you need far more layers with the greater dilution. It also gives me a bit of a hint as to how many layers of glaze are needed.

I think that that was where I was going wrong, being far to impatient and expecting to see a big difference with two or three layers of glaze.

I also did a similar test using Monument Hobbies Newsh to see how that would work and it was more or less the same although Newsh is a little more viscous than the glaze medium.

The big drawback is the time you need to wait for the layer of glaze to dry before adding the next layer, the glaze/paint mix does stay useable on the palette for a fairly long time but still is going to be drying out as you are waiting for the layers to dry. You can use a wet palette, but I find that the drawback of wet palettes is that they dilute the paint and taking the control over the dilution out of your hands.

The second test

The above example is all well and good but what I’m aiming to achieve is a smoother transition. So I set up another spare miniature base with a shade tone (in this case the mid tone with a little black), a mid tone Army Painter Alien purple (because purple is the best colour and you can make all colours from purple*), a highlight (mid tone with a little white).

This was taken after one layer of glaze (Mid tone and glaze medium 50/50) had been added.

Bit of a blurry photo but I think you can see that it wasn’t a total success. All that I seemed to be achieving was making the whole strip the same colour as the mid tone, which is I suppose inevitable given the technique.

I went online and watched some more tutorials and I think where I was going wrong here was firstly, the shade to mid-tone, mid-tone to highlight jumps were too large. Also, and I don’t know where I saw the advice to use just one glaze of the mid-tone for both the transitions, you probably need to use a separate glaze for each transition.

Check back for part 2 of this series “Miniature painting: the awful truth of glazing”.

Some of good tutorials on glazing (there are hundreds though and you really are spoiled for choice).

Lyla Melv – The mini witch – Layering and Glazing made Easy

JuanHildago Miniatures – The GLAZING TRICK eBay pro-painters don’t want you to know about!

Vince Ventruella – Ultimate Guide to Glazing – HC 391

*Ok that isn’t true but I feel that purple is such a great colour that it should be true!

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